Written and illustrated by Brad Calvert. Copyright 1995 Brad Calvert. All rights reserved.
This document contains descriptions, plans and instructions to build equipment to transport a Flymo H40 hand-powered lawn mower, gardening tools, rake and broom by bicycle. A mowing service of this kind eliminates the car parking difficulties, fossil fuel consumption, air pollution and greenhouse gas emissions associated with conventional mowing services. This system does not require large financial expenditure or the ability to drive a car and may be suitable for young people or others wishing to enjoy a physically exercising occupation.
The equipment described in this document has been found to suit a range of bicycles with various frame sizes and wheel sizes, however bicycles with wheels smaller than 26" in diameter are unlikely to be suitable. People who cycle with the seat in the lowest position may also encounter difficulties, although this has not been fully investigated and may be alleviated by using a carrier rack which is positioned as close to the rear wheel as possible or by using a smaller framed bicycle. Mountain bicycles have been found to be best suited to carrying this equipment, although a racer with 27 x 1 1/4" tyres has also been used. The equipment does not suit any mower other than the Flymo H40 (40cm wide blades), the Flymo H33 mower (33cm blades) is unsuitable for the mower rack. These instructions assume familiarity with the use of a range of tools. This document illustrates the dimensions of a mower rack to suit a 213mm wide steel carrier rack, eg. Koba brand. The mower rack may possibly be modified to suit a narrower rack by adjusting some of the dimensions.
Figure 0: Mower, rake, broom and tool container carried by the author on his bicycle. Northern hemisphere readers may be interested to note that in the southern hemisphere as well as seasons being reversed, shadows also fall in the opposite direction. A logo has also been developed.
The mower rack (Figures 1, 2 & 3) consists of two identical cylindrical columns, each with two 14mm diameter semi-circular ended slots centered across the length of the diameter of the tops of the columns. The columns are made from 95mm lengths of PVC pipe, external diameter 61mm, internal diameter not critical but often around 53mm. This pipe is often sold at swimming pool supply shops as has "50mm AS 1477-1988" printed along the side. By wrapping the straight edge of a piece of paper around the pipe where it is required to be cut, a line may be drawn around the pipe enabling the pipe to be cut uniformly around its circumference. The two 95mm lengths of pipe each have two semi-circular ended 14mm wide x 25mm long slots cut in their ends and a small hole drilled beneath each of these slots near the opposite end of the pipe. The 14mm slots may be cut into the pipe by marking a point 18mm from the end of the pipe and another mark diametrically opposite, ie. so that the distance around the circumference of the pipe from one mark to the other is equal in both directions. Making an indentation with a nail on each of these marks will assist in the accurate drilling of a hole centred correctly on the mark. While holding the pipe in a vice, first drill a small hole on each of the marks, then drill a 14mm hole. The straight edges of the slots may be cut by marking where they should be with a pencil and first using a hack-saw to cut a slot slightly narrower than 14mm from the end of the pipe to the 14mm hole and then using a file to make the slot the correct width. Two holes of a diameter enabling a small flat-head nail to pass through should be drilled at the opposite ends of each of the pipes, so they will be directly beneath each of the slots when the pipe is standing on end with the slots uppermost (Fig. 2). These pipe lengths are then partially filled with cylindrical wooden columns with a diameter equal to the internal diameter of the PVC pipe and length around 60mm, so the bolt head will not protrude above the height of the bottom of the 14mm slots. These columns are made from pine or other timber turned on a lathe, each having a hole drilled between the centres of their two circular faces, enabling an attachment bolt to be passed through. These columns should just fit in the pipes and not easily move. The head of the bolt should have a washer beneath it if it is an hexagonal headed bolt and may sit in a recessed cavity so that it does not protrude above the top of the column (this enables a column up to 70mm long to be used). Each wooden insert should be placed level with the pipe ends without slots. Once the wooden inserts are correctly positioned, flat-head nails (eg. 15mm long) may be hammered in through the two small holes beneath the 14mm slots to prevent the wooden insert sliding inside the pipe.
The frame to which these columns are attached may be constructed from hardwood timber. 19 x 70mm timber with a smooth finish as used on timber decking is ideal. The frame is made so the bases of the columns are level with the top of the steel carrier rack, thereby enabling the mower to be positioned as low as possible. The frame consists of four pieces of timber, bolted together to form a rectangle. One parallel pair of the pieces of timber must be separated by a distance equal to the width of the steel carrier rack (213mm in the example, eg. Koba carrier rack), and will be positioned abutting the steel rack. Be sure the edges of the steel rack are straight and parallel. The other two pieces of timber are placed perpendicularly to the first so they lie over the top of the steel rack and over the ends of the first pair. Two 1/4" (inch) (6.35mm) holes are drilled through each end of each piece of timber, enabling them to be bolted together using 2" x 1/4" cup head bolts, each with a washer and a Nyloc nut tightened so the nuts are beneath the rack. To ensure the mower rack will fit the steel carrier rack properly the pieces of timber may first be positioned around the steel carrier rack and held together with G-clamps in the required positions, then drilling the corner holes. The bolts may be shortened using a hack-saw so they do not unnecessarily protrude beyond the nuts beneath the rack. One piece of timber has two additional holes drilled to enable an elastic shock-cord loop (Fig. 20) to be attached, these holes should be positioned so that knotted shock-cord beneath them will not interfere with the steel carrier rack. Once these pieces are bolted together the four outermost corners should be sawn off according to the diagram. Any rough edges should be smoothed using a file. One hole is drilled in the each of the two pieces of timber positioned along the edge of the steel carrier rack so the holes are 292mm apart, enabling the columns to be positioned so their centres are separated by 292mm (Fig. 3), these two holes should be each positioned 135mm from the furthest edge of the rearmost piece of timber which passes over the steel carrier rack and which does not have two elastic loop holes (Fig. 3).
The columns are positioned so they can be attached, loosely at first, to the two holes drilled 292mm apart on the rack. Before placing the mower on the rack, be sure that the inner edges of the mower blades have been lightly filed or they will not slide along the columns without great difficulty. The filing should occur on those parts of the blades that will directly abutt the columns, rounding the corners of the blades so they may slide along the columns. Hardly any filing is required, only enough to take the edge off the corners of the steel so the blades will slide up and down the columns. First file four blade corners corresponding to the two columns and see how the mower slides on and off the rack (it should still take some effort to remove, pushing on one column at a time with both thumbs and lifting the mower blades), once you are happy with the results the other blades may be filed. Ensure the 14mm slots are all in a linear arrangement, this may be achieved by placing the mower over the two columns and ensuring the axle fits into each of the slots on the columns and then tightening the Nyloc nuts on the bolts to ensure the slots are correctly arranged. Toggle latches, Zeus brand, TL 803 DA (Figs. 2,3 & 4) (some have DZUS stamped on them), are fitted beside the columns, positioned to be tight against the steel rack when the latches are closed. Two latches, one on each side of the rack and on opposite sides of the columns, ie. diagonally opposed, have been found to be quite adequate, although four will provide added security. These latches are attached with 12mm self-tapping screws (no drilling is required). The centre of the screws attaching these latches should be 29mm (38mm minus the diameter of steel rods the carrier rack is constructed from) from the edge of the timber that will abut the steel carrier rack. Before completely tightening the screws, let the latch move as close as possible to the edge of the timber where it must reach over the steel carrier rack. If you are using different toggle latches place them in closed position interlocking with the carrier rack to determine where the screws should be positioned. Remember when the latch is closed it will be pulled against the screw, so the screw should be positioned to allow for this, ie. further from the carrier rack than might be expected if each screw was centred through the hole in the latch. If one of the toggle latches cannot be correctly positioned due to lack of space between a column or the piece of timber that passes over the steel carrier rack, space may be gained by unbolting the column and lightly filing the portion which obstructs the toggle latch. Alternatively, the toggle latches may both be positioned on the same side of each of the cylindrical columns. Pieces of wire may be passed through holes in the toggle latches to prevent them coming undone (Fig. 4) but this is not essential.
The required length of the elastic loop cannot be determined until the mower, rake and broom are put on the rack and bicycle (see below).
The mower rack is placed over the steel carrier rack so that it rests flat against the steel, the columns are positioned either side of the steel rack and the piece of timber that will have an elastic loop is as close to the bicycle seat pole as possible. Before closing down the attachment clamps, be sure that they are not obstructed by the part of the carrier rack which goes towards the rear wheel. The mower, rake and broom are attached to the bicycle after the tool container has been positioned (see Tool Container chapter).
Figure 1: schematic representation of mower blades positioned on rack.
Figure 2: side view of mower rack
Figure 3: plan view of the mower rack. The dotted diagonal lines at each corner represent where the corners should be sawn off.
Figure 4: Zeus toggle latch TL803
The tool container (Fig. 5)can be used to carry secateurs, trowel, fork, weeding tool, folding pruning saw, and modified Chuffle edger (a device with a blade and two wheels which may be attached to the broom handle with a steel spring split pin (Fig. 22). The tool container is made from 100mm UPVC sewer pipe, often with AS 1260 printed on the side, with caps placed on either end.
Using a hack-saw, cut a piece of pipe to the maximum length that will fit beneath the horizontal crossbar of your bicycle, but allow for the plastic caps and the fact that the pipe will sit around 5mm beneath the horizontal crossbar. The length required is the distance between the two parts of the frame 130mm below the horizontal crossbar, measured parallel to that crossbar. Once this measurement has been obtained the container should be sawn off to a length a few mm shorter than this (to allow for the plastic caps). By wrapping a tape measure or the straight edge of a piece of paper around the pipe where it is required to be cut, a line may be drawn around the pipe enabling the pipe to be cut uniformly around its circumference. Once the pipe has been cut to length the sawn ends should be lightly filed to remove the daggy pieces of plastic to produce a smooth finish. Wet the inner surfaces of the plastic caps before placing them on the ends of the container, as this makes them easier to remove if the container is too long. If the container is still too long, remove a cap and shorten the container to the correct length.
Figure 5: tool container (without plastic caps fitted)
The tool container is attached to the horizontal crossbar of the bicycle with two bicycle toe-clip straps, each of which is passed through two holes cut in the container, so that the container hangs from the horizontal crossbar. The holes should each be of a size enabling the toe-clip straps to be passed through but not move very freely. The slots (for the Chuffle edger or to make removing the cap less difficult) should both be in a horizontal plane when the container is attached to the bicycle, ie. each of the toe-clip strap holes are equidistant from the slots (Fig. 11). The toe-clip straps may be shortened and the end melted to prevent fraying.
Figure 6: arrangement of toe-clip strap holes and holes to attach hose-clamp on the tool container.
The toe-clip strap holes should be positioned so that they will not interfere with any protrubrances from the bicycle frame, typically the pairs of holes may be around 200mm from each other, they should each be an equal distance from each end of the container. When attaching the container to the bicycle it may be necessary to pass the straps beneath the rear brake cable so they will not impede its operation. Plastic cable ties placed appropriately around the horizontal crossbar of the bicycle will restrict any forward and backward motion of the toe-clip straps and prevent the container sliding back and forth. One or two plastic hose clamps (Fig. 7) (sometimes called pipe clips or Jubilee clips) may be permanently attached to the container where it is connected to the crossbar. This enables both hands to be free when tightening the straps around the crossbar. The hose clamp is not strong enough to hold the container by itself. A plastic cable tie is sufficient to attach a hose clamp to the container if two holes are drilled in the container corresponding to the attachment holes of the hose clamp. Be sure to get the size that is suited to the diameter of your bicycle cross-bar, they are available in 1" 1 1/4" 1 1/2", 1 3/4" sizes.
Figure 7: hose clamp, front and side views
Once the tool container and the mower rack have been positioned on the bicycle, the mower (excluding handles) is positioned on the mower rack so that the plastic roller at the rear of the mower is facing the rear of the bicycle. An elastic loop should be constructed, at first only knotting one end and leaving a length of cord hanging beneath the rack, later it will be knotted and cut to an appropriate length (Fig. 20). The elastic loop of the mower rack should protrude between the cutting blades and the steel tubing frame of the mower, the ends passing through the two drilled holes and beneath the rack. The plastic roller of the mower should be at the highest or second highest cutting level. Now pass the rake handle through the mower blades so that it passes above the central axle but beneath one cutting blade, then through the elastic loop, above the steel tubing frame of the mower, to one side of the seat pole and towards the front of the bicycle. Follow the same procedure with the broom handle, only passing it to the opposite side of the seat pole. If either of these handles rub against the rear brake cable when being positioned or removed, it may be necessary to cover that part of the cable with a sheath of plastic tubing to prevent it wearing through.
The mower handles are then placed over the bicycle so that the parts that attach to the mower are rearmost and so the fork in the handles (near where a bolt holds the lower and upper parts together) abutts the bicycle seat pole, the lower ends of the mower handles should rest on the mower blades, the upper end of the mower handles should rest against the horizontal crossbar of the bicycle. Positioning the handles in this manner may require the bicycle handlebars and mower handles to be wiggled around. In a small number of cases it may not be possible to position the handles as described above, you may wish to try another bicycle or see the section Shortening Mower Handles in the appendix.
The mower handles, rake and broom are secured with an elastic strap, Figs. 9, 10, 13, 14, 15, 16 and 17. Positioning this strap will take some time to become used to, be sure to adjust it so that the tension is distributed evenly along its length. Undo the strap when the bicycle is not in use for any length of time.
Now that the equipment is positioned, the correct length of the elastic loop may be determined. From beneath the rack, pull the untied end of the elastic so it stretches and pulls against the rake and broom handles, and pull the knotted end from above the rack, so that the tension is uniformly distributed. When the loop is quite firm, use a marking pen to mark the untied end of the cord immediately beneath the rack. The next step is probably easiest if you remove the equipment and the mower rack itself from the bicycle. With nothing passing through the loop, tie the untied end of the loop beneath the rack so that the mark you made with the marking pen is just visible above the knot, and will abutt the underneath of the rack when the loop is stretched. See if now, when the equipment is positioned, the loop is tight and prevents the rake and broom from rattling and provides a downward force, preventing the mower moving up the columns. If you think it is too tight or too loose, untie the knot and shorten or lengthen the loop accordingly.
When on the bicycle, the ends of the mower handles which connect to the mower are each covered with a safety cover so the blunt steel ends are concealed from anyone who might bump into them, eg. young children admiring your bicycle or in the event of a collision. These safety covers are constructed from 1&1/4" rubber chair tips (commonly used on the ends of chairlegs to prevent damage to floors) with a length of clear flexible PVC tubing with an internal diameter of 25mm pushed into the chair tip as if it were a chair leg (Fig. 8). Each piece of PVC tubing should be 150mm long. The inside of the chair tip will be protected from any abrasive wear against the mower handle if a coin slightly less than 30mm in diameter, such as an Australian or New Zealand twenty cent piece, is first placed in the rubber chair tip before the PVC tubing is inserted. These safety covers should be pushed over the ends of the mower handles as far as they will go. They will require no glueing as long as when they are removed they are pulled by the PVC tube and when they are put on they are pushed by the rubber chair tip. The covers are held on to the mower handles due to the deformation of the PVC tube which is neccesary for them to be positioned, they require no special attachment.
Figure 8: a safety cover as illustrated above (but with 150mm long PVC hose) is placed over each of the two ends of the mower handles.
Figure 9: this is the sort of spring clip used attached to the elastic shock-cord strap, the stainless steel clip is 50mm long.
Figure 10: shock-cord strap with spring clip and knotted ends made into loops, the knots are tied as illustrated in figure 18.
From end to end this cord and clip should be about 145cm long. It should just fit, without being stretched, when not passed under the frame beneath the bicycle seat pole (Fig. 13). When the cord is passed under the frame it should require stretching and be quite tight (Fig. 14), preventing the mower handles, rake and broom from moving. This will require about 2 metres of 8mm shock cord.
Figure 11: positions of tool container and mower rack
Figure 12: this cap is the cap that is regularly removed to obtain access to the tool container. Three curved recesses are filed on its corner edge. The largest recess should interface the diagonal part of the bicycle frame to prevent the container swinging on the horizontal crossbar. The two smaller recesses are for a shock-cord strap to hold the lid onto the container. The two ends of the shock cord are attached to the container through holes as illustrated in figure 5, and knotted as in figure 19.
Figure 13: when the elastic strap is the correct length and is positioned without crossing over beneath the seat-pole, it should not require stretching but be a snug fit.
Figure 14: elastic strap when crossed over beneath the seat pole tube to secure the rake, broom and mower handles. The strap should be adjusted so the tension is uniform along its length.
Figure 15: schematic representation of shock-cord strap arrangement when the equipment is attached to the bicycle. The crossing over of the strap is illustrated.
Figure 16: arrangement of elastic strap, mower handle, rake and broom handles when in position towards front of bicycle.
Figure 17: arrangement of elastic strap, mower handle, rake and broom handles around the seat pole when attached to the bicycle.
Figure 18: knots are tied at the ends of the shock-cord elastic strap which secures the rake, broom and mower handles as illustrated above. The spring clip is only present at one end of this strap.
Figure 19: knots are tied in the shock-cord used on the elastic loop and the shock-cord which secures the cap of the tool container as illustrated above.
Figure 20: the elastic loop which the broom and rake handle are passed through looks like this.
Figure 21: tool for removing grass that becomes tangled around the axles of the mower. This may be made by bending coat hanger wire into shape.
A floppy, wide-brimmed, hat is easily carried by rolling it up and tucking it beneath the elastic strap. Wearing a hat will reduce sunburn when lawn mowing.
A bum bag is useful to carry the tool for removing tangled grass, pen and paper, wallet, pocket knife, gardening gloves and anything else.
Mulga Bill is a character from Mulga Bill's Bicycle, a poem written in 1897 by A. B. (Banjo) Paterson.
'Twas Mulga Bill, from Eaglehawk, that caught the cycling craze; He turned away the good old horse that served him many days; He dressed himself in cycling clothes, resplendent to be seen; He hurried off to town and bought a shining new machine; And as he wheeled it through the door, with air of lordly pride, The grinning shop assistant said, "Excuse me, can you ride?"
"See here young man," said Mulga Bill, "from Walgett to the sea, From Conroy's Gap to Castlereagh, there's none can ride like me. I'm good all round at everything, as everybody knows, Although I'm not the one to talk - I hate a man that blows. But riding is my special gift, my chiefest, sole delight; Just ask a wild duck can it swim, a wildcat can it fight. There's nothing walks or jumps, or runs, on axle, hoof, or wheel, But what I'll sit, while hide will hold and girths and straps are tight: I'll ride this here two-wheeled concern right straight away at sight."
'Twas Mulga Bill, from Eaglehawk, that sought his own abode, That perched above the Dead Man's Creek, beside the mountain road. He turned the cycle down the hill and mounted for the fray, But ere he'd gone a dozen yards it bolted clean away. It left the track, and through the trees, just like a silver streak, It whistled down the awful slope towards the Dead Man's Creek.
It shaved a stump by half an inch, it dodged a big white-box: The very wallaroos in fright went scrambling up the rocks, The wombats hiding in their caves dug deeper underground, As Mulga Bill, as white as chalk, sat tight to every bound. It struck a stone and gave a spring that cleared a fallen tree, It raced beside a precipice as close as close could be; And then as Mulga Bill let out one last despairing shriek It made a leap of twenty feet into the Dead Man's Creek.
'Twas Mulga Bill, from Eaglehawk, that slowly swam ashore: He said, "I've had some narrer shaves and lively rides before; I've rode a wild bull round a yard to win a five-pound bet, But this was the most awful ride that I've encountered yet. I'll give that two-wheeled outlaw best; it's shaken all my nerve To feel it whistle through the air and plunge and buck and swerve. It's safe at rest in Dead Man's Creek, we'll leave it lying still; A horse's back is good enough henceforth for Mulga Bill."
This chapter is only applicable when the mower handles cannot be positioned as described in the Using equipment chapter. If you are a tall person, you may prefer to get a larger framed bicycle, at least consider whether you will be comfortable using mower handles a few centimetres shorter than usual.
1. Decide by what length you wish to shorten the mower handles by trying to place the handles in position and measuring by what length they fail to be able to be placed in position, and be sure that you will still be comfortable using the mower with handles shortened by this length. It is unlikely that the handles will need to be shortened by more than a few centimetres in order to fit the bicycle. Possibly only 10 or 20mm will have to be removed. Remember handles not shortened enough can be shortened further but handles cut too short cannot be lengthened.
2. Write down the length by which you wish to shorten the handles, eg. 20mm.
3. Undo the nut and bolt which holds the two parts of the handles which connect to the mower, ie. the nut and bolt furthest from the handle grips.
4. Remove the two parts of the handles which connect to the mower, it may be necessary to twist them to make them become loose.
5. Replace and tighten the nut and bolt into the mower handles, while still leaving unbolted the two parts of the handles which connect to the mower (these are not modified in any way, leave them alone until re-assembly).
6. Measure the required length to be shortened, eg. 20mm, from the open ends of the steel tubes and mark with pencil or marking pen this distance away from the ends of the tubes. Mark all around the tubes this distance from the ends of the tubes, so the sawing can remain a uniform distance from the ends of the tubes. This is where the tubes will be sawn using a hack saw.
7. If this sawing will not interfere with the nut and bolt, the tubes may now be shortened by sawing them off at this mark, go to step 8. If the sawing is required where the nut and bolt are positioned, ie. 30mm from the end of the tubes go to step 9.
8. Saw the tubes off at this mark, making sure that the hacksaw follows your marking around the tubes. Now go to step 10.
9. Also mark a position 30mm further along the tubes where the nut and bolt will be placed on the shortened handles, and drill holes here, ie. go to step 11.
10. Measure 30mm from where you have sawn the tubes and mark where the holes for the nut and bolt must be positioned, continue to step 11.
11. In each of the two correct positions where the holes are required to be drilled (ie. one hole from each side where the nut and bolt will be exposed), file the surface of the tube to make a small flat surface then mark the exact position of the holes with a punch. Whenever drilling place the tubes in a vice so that they are held securely at a point as close as possible to the position where the holes must be drilled. Drill the holes first with a small diameter drill eg. 3mm, without penetrating the inner sides of the tubes (ie. where the two tubes abutt each other). Now pass the drill through one of the holes and drill through the inner sides of the tubes, taking care that the drill is on course to line up with the hole on the other side of the other tube. Make sure the drill can pass right through both the steel tubes. Repeat this with a 6mm drill, this is the final diameter required for the hole. After drilling be sure no steel burrs are inside the tubes preventing the handles being re-assembled.
12. Once new holes have been drilled, place the bolt through the new holes and tighten the nut. If the tubes have not yet been shortened now saw the tubes off at this mark, making sure that the hacksaw follows the marking around the tubes.
The Chuffle edger can be placed in the container only if its scraper plate is removed. When this is removed it may be useful to place a spacer washer on the attaching pin to reduce its movement. The Chuffle should be placed in the container after the other tools with its blade towards the top of the container (where the hinges are), sliding it into the container with its two axles into the two slots and the two wheels and axle handles outside the container. Other tools, eg. secateurs, grass shears (single hand use, swivel handle style), trowell, fork, weeding tool, pruning saw (Wiltshire manufacture a pruning saw which has a blade which folds into the handle, and is around 20cm long when folded) etc., should be put in before the Chuffle. The Chuffle is useful for maintaining edges along paths that are already reasonably neat, more overgrown edges may require a spade or may be supplemented with a Chuffle. The Chuffle may be attached to the end of a broom or rake handle using the spring split pin provided, this requires a hole to be drilled in the handle. Drill the hole in such a way so that the length of the rake or broom head is oriented in the same direction as the Chuffle blade so it will not bother you when you use it.
Figure 22: a spring split pin like this may be used to attach a Chuffle edger to the end of a broom or rake handle with a hole drilled in it.
The equipment described in this document has been used extensively without any damage to property or personal injury. However, a bicycle's handling characteristics are altered when heavily laden with a mower and gardening tools, so take care when riding your bicycle when carrying the equipment, and become accustomed to the characteristics of the bicycle in a quiet and safe area before travelling on busy roads. Be sure that your brakes are well maintained and allow greater distances to stop when carrying the mower and gardening equipment. Remember the width of the mower will make it more difficult to travel between narrowly spaced objects. If you have any doubts about your ability to safely ride a bicycle carrying a mower, gardening tools, rake and broom, do not proceed any further. No responsibility will be accepted for any injuries or property damage occurring as a result of following the instructions in this document.
Where did the phrase "YOUR PASSPORT TO ADVENTURE" (as I have used beneath the heading at the top of the first page) originate?
I hope you have at least found this interesting, I would be interested to hear about any other bicycle based self-employment opportunities.
Brad Calvert 21 October 1995
P.S. I first carried a Flymo mower by bicycle in about August 1991. Much experimentation has gone into arriving at the configuration described above, the main features of which were sorted out by about August 1993 with minor changes made in 1994 (for example you may notice that the safety covers on the ends of the mower handles pictured in the grey-scale picture are not those described in the document, the covers described are cheaper and simpler to make than the previous version).
